Finding the right 1 7 scale rc body shells can totally change how your car looks and performs on the pavement. If you've spent any time in the RC world lately, you know that 1/7 scale has become a massive deal, mostly thanks to rigs like the Arrma Infraction, Limitless, and Mojave. It's that perfect middle ground—bigger and more stable than your standard 1/10 scale stuff, but not quite as massive or wallet-draining as a 1/5 scale beast. But after a few bad tumbles or some high-speed curb checks, that stock body is going to start looking a little rough. That's when you realize the rabbit hole of aftermarket shells is actually a lot of fun to dive into.
Why the body shell actually matters
A lot of people think the body is just for show, but at this scale, it's doing a lot of heavy lifting. When you're pushing a 1/7 scale car to 80, 90, or even 100-plus miles per hour, aerodynamics stop being a "cool feature" and start being a necessity. If your shell doesn't cut through the air properly, or if it catches too much wind underneath, your expensive speed machine becomes a very fast kite.
Choosing between different 1 7 scale rc body shells usually comes down to what you're planning to do on Saturday afternoon. Are you trying to set a personal speed record on a closed road, or are you just trying to look the coolest while drifting around a parking lot? The "shelf queen" look is great, but functionality usually wins out when you're actually behind the transmitter.
Choosing between clear and pre-painted
This is the classic hobbyist dilemma. You can buy a pre-painted (RTR style) body that looks decent right out of the box, or you can go with a clear polycarbonate shell.
If you're impatient like me, the pre-painted ones are tempting. You just trim the body posts, snap it on, and go. But there's a catch: everyone else at the track has that same look. If you want something that stands out, you've got to go the clear route. Painting your own 1 7 scale rc body shells is a bit of a rite of passage. It's stressful, messy, and you'll probably forget to peel the overspray film off at least once, but the result is a one-of-a-kind ride.
When you're working with clear shells, remember that you're painting the inside. It feels backwards at first, but it's what gives RC cars that deep, glossy finish. Plus, it protects the paint from scratches when you inevitably flip the car over.
The big names in the game
While Arrma makes some of the most popular platforms for these bodies, they aren't the only ones making the shells. Brands like Bittydesign and Delta Plastik have really stepped up the game for 1/7 scale fans.
Bittydesign, for example, brings that Italian flair to the RC world. Their bodies often look like something straight off a GT3 racing grid. They're sleek, they're aggressive, and they usually include high-quality decals that don't peel off the second they get a little damp.
On the other hand, Delta Plastik is the go-to for speed runners. They offer a huge variety of 1/7 and 1/8 scale bodies that are specifically molded to stay planted at high speeds. If you're looking for a classic supercar look or a vintage muscle car vibe for your Infraction, they've probably got something that fits the wheelbase perfectly.
Aerodynamics and downforce
Let's talk a bit more about the "aero" side of things. Most 1/7 scale cars are "street bashers" or speed run cars. Because they have a relatively large surface area, the body acts like a giant wing.
If you're picking out 1 7 scale rc body shells for high-speed runs, look for something with a low profile and a long nose. You want the air to stay on top of the car. Many aftermarket bodies come with separate wings or spoilers that you bolt on. Don't just slap these on for aesthetics; the angle of that rear wing can be the difference between a successful pass and a spectacular backflip.
For drifters, aero matters less, and "swag" matters more. You might want a body with more vertical sides or a boxier shape—think 80s hatchbacks or classic trucks—because they're easier to track visually while the car is sideways.
Making your shell last longer
Let's be real: 1/7 scale RC cars are heavy and fast. When they hit something, the body takes a beating. Polycarbonate (often called Lexan) is tough, but it's not invincible. It'll crack, especially around the body mount holes or the wheel wells.
One trick that almost every veteran hobbyist uses is the "Shoe Goo and drywall tape" method. Before you even run a new body, you take some fiberglass drywall mesh tape and line the inside of the high-impact areas—like the front bumper and the arches. Then, you spread a layer of Shoe Goo (an industrial-strength adhesive) over the tape. Once it dries, it creates a flexible, rubbery "exoskeleton" that prevents the plastic from cracking. It adds a little weight, but for a 1/7 scale car, the durability trade-off is almost always worth it.
Cutting and fitting
One of the most annoying parts of getting new 1 7 scale rc body shells is the trimming. Unless you bought a factory-replacement part, you're probably going to have to cut out the wheel wells and the bottom edges yourself.
Pro tip: get yourself a pair of curved Lexan scissors. Trying to use straight kitchen scissors or an X-Acto knife is a recipe for jagged edges and cut fingers. The curved blades let you follow the lines of the wheel arches smoothly. If you really want a professional finish, use a sanding drum on a Dremel tool to smooth out the edges after you cut them. It makes a huge difference in how the car looks up close.
Mounting styles: clips vs. clipless
The RC world is slowly moving away from those pesky little metal body clips that everyone loses in the grass. Some newer 1/7 scale setups use clipless mounting systems that latch onto the chassis from underneath.
However, many aftermarket 1 7 scale rc body shells are still designed for traditional body posts. If you're switching from a stock clipless body to a custom shell, you might need to buy a body post conversion kit. It's an extra step, but it opens up a world of body options that you wouldn't have otherwise. Plus, there's something weirdly satisfying about the "click-click-click" of snapping clips into place before a run.
Final thoughts on customization
At the end of the day, the body is the soul of the car. You can have the most expensive brushless motor and the fanciest carbon fiber chassis, but if the body is a thrashed, generic shell, the car just doesn't feel finished.
Experimenting with different 1 7 scale rc body shells lets you change the entire personality of your vehicle. You can go from a rugged, weathered "rat rod" look one week to a pristine, neon-colored drift machine the next. Just remember to take your time with the prep work, reinforce the weak spots, and don't be afraid to get a little creative with the paint. After all, if you aren't scuffing up a new body every now and then, you probably aren't driving hard enough.